Extático blog

Time don’t exist, it is just a feeling.

Why we don´t like leather straps

                        Why we don’t like leather straps It has been demonstrated that contained of chromium VI in leather produces a problem for human health. Chromium VI compounds can induce new cases of sensitisation and elicit allergic response. Chromium VI are formed in the industrial process called tanning, that consist for treating leather. With that is achieved a great improved in finishing of leather in special case of watches with leather straps. Chromium Vi emerges of other compound called Chromium III. So, Chromium VI compounds can be formed in leather through the oxidation of Chromium III compounds, which are added in some tanning processes to cross- link the collagen subunits in order to increase leather’s dimensional stability. The problem is that Chormium VI takes a sensitisation direct or indirect with a contact skin or not. In already sensitised people, such contacts may also elicit allergic response at lower concentrations than those needed for the induction of sensitisation. The COMMISSION REGULATION (EU) No 301/2014 of 25 March 2014 has proposed a restriction should cover leather articles and articles containing leather parts used by consumers or workers, that under normal or reasonably foreseeable conditions of use come into contact with the skin. So, watches leather strap will be involved is this normative. The determination limit chromium VI content in the total dry weight of the leather would be of 3 mg/kg (0,0003 % by weight). But we realized long time ago that watches leather strap produces allergic response with contact on skin. In Alicante we have a very good leather industry....

Machining Titanium in workshop. It is not so difficult

                        In general titanium machining is extremely complicated to use but not as people believe. Titanium has been machining since long time ago, before CNC machines appeared in the market. So, titanium was machined by conventional lathes with the difference they are very unproductive for big industry. Factories need to mechanize many different parts with different sizes in little time. Then, CNC machines with high cut speed, high torque, rigid structures are some of features necessaries for get good results working titanium alloy.The problem is this kind of machine are very expensive for any start-up company or it wants to work with an alloy like TI6V4AL in house. We have much experience with cast dental alloys like chromium-nickel, cobalt-chromium or titanium 6 vanadium 4 aluminium, the same we have used in some of watches. Really, it is difficult to get melting temperature, because is very high. Moreover, in some cases is necessary an inert atmosphere to avoid oxidation. Anyway, micro polishing or similar operations are not complicated when workshop as the equipment for that. Then, our questions is it is necessary to machining titanium with high cut speed or we can do it with a low speed? It is possible to cut titanium with a cut speed around 1m/minute? We have looked for some references by internet about 10 tips for machining titanium and we found a link very interesting about that. In this site explains there is a special cliche about the difficulty to machine titanium. It is due or not to know the titanium physical properties. Not...

We like materials for watchcases

                        We like all materials that can use for watches. So far we try with common materials like aluminium, steel, bronze or titanium. We try these other materials in the future. But I will be more specific with watch case material Some post ago we talked about a new nanocomposite for watch case very strong called itr2. This material is very interesting for its hardness. Its appearance is nice when it blends with other materials like copper even ground. Silicium is another material likes a lot, but it has very problem for machining. There is a company that works silicium to material watch it explains its limitations. Hardness and fragility extreme convert this material in very difficult to work. But the colour factory achieves with is machining is very nice. Concrete material choice is very interesting as well. This material allows a relation with architecture and the concept watch. Thus, each element of watch can be involved by this context. Sapphire crystal uses to watch cases. There are several brands that have tried it. It looks very nice because the customer looks into each parts of watch. Leather, plastics, niobium, tugsten, chromium-cobalt, magnesium, carbon fiber etc. are materials watches for machining in our...

Using Fusion 360 in EXTático watches

                          Fusion 360 for extatico watches is a new tool of Autodesk that joins design, mechanical engineering and machining. This tool uses the cloud for collaboration between different people. The idea is that customers can use this tool without come out of Fusion. They even collaborate between them in the cloud. From first stroke until machining simulation customer can work with Fusion. This is very interesting because designers don’t need to buy expensive programs for doing a new design and show it by emails. Work in cloud permits to do it easily as well. Moreover, this tool is uptodate constantly. So, improving are provided each 2 or 3 months. Autodesk idea is to offers a product that simple customer or professional engineer can do his own design, beginning from a sketch and ending with code for machining. So, we haven’t necessity to invest in expensive software. Fusion 360 has a good price with a lot of design tools. Thus, we can invest in machinery for making our watches in own workshop like CNC, pad printer, sandblaster, etc. So far, fusion 360 gallery has admitted one of extatico watches like bronze diver. It was a good news for us, because  it is a reward for our effort. We are currently doing a 3D simulation of the movement. Let’s introduce and display it in our laboratory of extatico watches. Fusion 360 allows to design with polygons, surfaces and solids too. As well CAM software in fusion is of 3-5 axes, very similar to Autodesk HSM software. We can do drawing in autocad,...

Why we like plexy or polycarbonate crystal for watches.

                        Lately, the most of watches brand that want to introduce in a so compétitive market, they put sapphire crystal on their watches. We also did it thus, because we like the transparence that offers this kind of crystal. sapphire’ Refractive index is of 1,775 while PMMA or Polycarbonate is of 1,5. Theoretically, this produce an increase of transparency in watch inside, but there are some factors that can give a good appearance with plexiglass crystal. For instance, material thickness. Sapphire cristal with a big thickness offer a very good transparence but plexy is not so good with that. If a diver factory wants to build a watch with a high hermeticity, keeping the transparence, it can select a sapphire crystal with 5mm even more. Moreover dial can be viewed closer. But, how can this property can be add in watches with plexy crystal. Easily, with domed crystal. Crystal domed has the property to bear big pressures with small thickness depending on its curvature. With bigger curve better supports the pressures. This property can be analysed in simulation program it will show a relation between Moreover, in accordance with our new internal policy of mechanizing the most of possible components, we can do plexyglas or polycarbonate crystal in our workshop easily. That gives us the ability of design develop and manufacture all possible shapes for this kind of materials.                        ...

Itr² a new material for watches.

                    Itr² is a material made by Invector factory in Swiss. So far, Itr² was used for a watch company exclusively. Now, it has been released and other companies have started to use it. Itr² is a composite material charged with carbon nanotubes that provide a serial of technical properties very specific. For instance,in respect of its hardness it has 600 VH, much more than stainless steel. It is easy to machine but the period for do it is longer, until five time that steel. So its value is very high because is necessary to know the machining of this material very well. Due to the hardness, Itr²allows to make movement parts like plates or bridges without jewels. Holes are made with the same precision but is not necessary to put jewels in parts. Company advices this process is very difficult to do it, so they limit its useful to high end watch companies. As well, all kind of particles can be added for changing the aspect, Cooper, silver, gold even clay as some brand watches has made. All colours are posibles too. If we have ocasion for making a prototype with this material we will do it. The problem is very difficult to get it because this company just offers this material to known companies in Swiss. Anyway we will try to achieve it because to use new materials is the idea of our...

A Juntor machining study

We have made a Juntor machining study, because we are going to manufacture a watch case in house. So far, we sent our watch files to Córdoba in Spain. Now, we will make our watches here in Alcoy, almost all parts. Therefore, we have made this simulation with 360 Fusion software of autodesk. The software allows to know which tools we need to mechanize, feeds, step over, time etc. In this case we have checked a simulation with titanium material. We have needed 16 minutes for do it with low speed and flood. The finishing has been made until 0,1mm but we can reach 0,05 of precision. We can mechanize watches in few time. So, we have needed 3 tools and 4 different...

Extático storytelling

  Extático brand was founded in 2006 in Alcoy (Alicante) Spain. At first, it emerges from a philosophical idea of the lived time. We thought that the time belong to each one. Really, it is what the Extático word meaning. This idea was reflected in the dial peculiar we have designed for those old watches. You can see it in this picture blog. Now, we have advanced a little more in our way to conceive the time. We believe that it is very important the design, develop and manufacture our own watches, from the stroke until the physical watch. We are able to make all parts that compose a watch. Although we manufacture our watches in Córdoba, Spain, in outsourcing, we want to set the necessary machinery for making the watches over here, in Alcoy. We have bought the software for being able to develop a watch, even the mechanization process software with Inventor HSM for 3 axes. As well, with Granda ECO materials for Inventor, we can search the best material appropriate for innovations of our products. Moreover, we carry on researching in new industrial process as laser metal sintered that we have applied in some model now. In the new watch model called Conceptor, we are developing a new movement with 3 separated hands as if it were a dashboard car. You can look at it by the web site...

316 L Juntor Concept. Made in Spain

Juntor Concept     Juntor Concept This watch is based on bolts and screws used to connect different elements. Although they are very usual, these shapes look very nice and a pleasant inspiration for our design of the watch  Technical specifications.  Made in Spain. 46 mm width, 15, 5 mm height. case back with 4 screws. stainless steel 316L  Bidirectional bezel with 12 clicks.  20 ATM.  Pushed  crown ATM 20. Made in Spain.  Rubber strap blue 540 Pantone  Buckle with EXTático logo.  Sapphire crystal with red anti reflective for both sides.  Luminova handles .  ETA 6498-1. Manual winding movement, Swiss made  2 years...

Juntor Bronze CuSn7Zn3 (Gun bronze)

                                                                Technical specifications.  Bronze CuSn7Zn3. Made in Spain. 46 mm width, 15, 5mm height. case back 44mm with 4 screws.  Bidirectional bezel with 12 clicks.  20 ATM.  Pushed  crown ATM 20. Made in Spain.  Black rubber strap. You can choose another colour you like  316 L SS buckle with EXTático logo.  Sapphire crystal with red anti reflective for both sides.  Luminova handles .  ETA 6498-1. Manual winding movement, Swiss made  3 years warranty  Price Bronze 1275 euros shipping included.   Bronze CuSn7Zn3  General Copper Alloy: CuSn7Zn3 Density 8.75e3 – 8.85e3 kg/m^3 CO2 creation * 4.1 – 4.54 kg/kg Production Energy * 65.2 – 72.1 MJ/kg Recycle Fraction * 0.3 – 0.4 Composition Composition (Summary) Cu/7Sn/3Zn Base Cu (Copper) Cu (Copper) 87 % Sn (Tin) 7 % Zn (Zinc) 3 % Mechanical Bulk Modulus * 85.3 – 88.6 GPa Compressive Strength 130 – 160 MPa Elongation 5 – 15 % Elastic Limit 130 – 160 MPa Endurance Limit * 130 – 159 MPa Fracture Toughness * 61.3 – 67.9 MPa.m^1/2 Hardness – Vickers 150 HV Loss Coefficient * 156e-6 – 237e-6 Modulus of Rupture 130 – 160 MPa Poisson’s Ratio 0.34 – 0.35 Shape Factor 28 Shear Modulus * 29.2 – 30.3 GPa Tensile Strength 250 – 340 MPa Young’s Modulus 79 – 82 GPa Thermal Maximum Service Temperature 180 – 190 °C Melting Point 917 – 1042 °C Minimum Service Temperature -63 – -48 °C Specific Heat * 382.8 – 383.9 J/kg.K Thermal Conductivity * 60 –...

Black anodized aluminium pictures. Ale Juntor

                                                                                    Juntor is based on bolts and screws used to connect different elements. Although they are very usual, these shapes look very nice and a pleasant inspiration for our design of the watch  Technical specifications.  Black anodized aluminiuml. Made in Spain. 46 mm width, 15, 5mm height. case back with 4 screws.  Bidirectional bezel with 12 clicks.  20 ATM.  Pushed  crown ATM 20. Made in Spain.  Black rubber strap. You can choose another colour you like  316 L SS buckle with EXTático logo.  Sapphire crystal with red anti reflective for both sides.  Luminova handles .  ETA 6498-1. Manual winding movement, Swiss...

New Diver EXT pictures

                                                                                                                  Technical specifications.  316L SS watch case . Made in Spain. 44mm width, 15, 5mm height. 157 gr weight. 316 L SS case back screweD.  Unidirectional bezel with 120 clicks.  40 ATM.  Screwed crown twin locks 40 atm. Made inSpain.  Black or red rubber strap, for choosing.  316 L SS buckle with EXTático logo.  Red or gray dial with Luminova, for choosing.  Sapphire crystal with red anti reflective for both sides.  Luminova handles Made in Spain.  ETA 2824-2 Movement, Swiss made  2 years...

Electroplating bronze

electroplating coating bronze juntor Electroplating The process Metal coating process wherein a thin metallic coat is deposited on the workpiece by means of an ionized electrolytic solution. The workpiece (cathode) and the metallizing source materialthat (anode) are submerged in the solution where a direct electrical current causes the metallic ions to migrate from the source material to the workpiece. The workpiece and source metal are suspended in the ionised electrolytic solution by insulated rods. Thorough surface cleaning precedes the plating operation. This is the process to electroplating coating bronze juntor. Plating is carried out for many reasons: corrosion resistance, improved appearance, wear resistance, higher electrical conductivity, better electrical contact, greater surface smoothness and better light reflectance. Physical Attributes Coating thickness 1 – 125 (m Coating rate 1e-3 – 83000e-3 (m/s Component area restricted Curved surface coverage Average Processing temperature 10 – 77 °C Surface hardness 25 – 1000 HV Surface roughness (A=v. smooth) A Function of Treatment Corrosion protection (aqueous) Wear resistance Friction Control Magnetic properties Aesthetics Colour Economic Attributes Relative tooling cost low Relative capital cost high Plating for aesthetic purposes has its origins in the silver and gold plating of tableware and cutlery (‘Sheffield Plate’), and in chrome and nickel plating for shiny, durable surfaces. Most polymers can now be plated, but care must be taken to prevent the coating breaking or peeling in use. The ability to plate convoluted shapes depends on what is called the ‘surface coverage’ of the plating bath. Some have very poor surface coverage, meaning that only flat or gently curved surfaces can be plated; others – often assisted by mysterious, proprietary additives to the plating bath – can...

Black PVD regulador. 5 renders.

                                                                          This watch concept is based on a diving regulator. A diving regulator is a device that enables a diver to breathe air from a scuba tank to the pressure of the depth at which it is located. The regulator permitted diving scuba implementation. The watch concept regulador reminds the shape of this mechanism. Even the dial suggest opened valves around breather mouthpiece or other part of the breathing loop TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 316L SS watch case. Made in Spain. 44mm width, 15, 5mm height. 157 gr weight. 316L SS case back eight screws. Special system link for strap. Black PVD Unidirectional bezel with 120 clicks. PUR Colour indicators. 30 ATM. Screwed crown twin locks 30 atm. Made in Spain. Black rubber strap. 316 L SS buckle with EXTático logo. Colour dials with Luminova Sapphire crystal with red anti reflective for both sides. Luminova handles Made in Spain. 2 years warranty On...

EXTático polyurethane straps. Material and process

Our watches straps, which are made of polyurethane, have many innovative features. First, they are made of a polyurethane casting vacuum. This gives them much greater tensile and flexural strength than any thermoplastic rubber. Furthermore, the fact of being manufactured vacuum gives an absence of pores. The casting polyurethane strap allows for custom units. This means that if a customer wants a particular colour or size, perimeter even a certain number of holes, we can do it. The customer sends his wrist measures and we create a model of your wrist in 3D. On this model, we model customized strap, with measures the customer wants and is manufactured in the Pantone colour who likes to the client. Our straps are designed in the alias studio on the watchcase, which previously has been designed in Autodesk Inventor. This provides a perfect fit and softness of our conceptual watches. The reasons for use are: Performance, 1. Abrasion 2- Hardiness 3- Tensile strength 4-Load support Cost – benefit, 1. Eliminates costly downtime in operations 2- Low investment of equipment for small productions 3- Low maintenance costs equipment. Another advantage is that you can achieve 75 A Shore Hardness, which is ideal for adapting to the wrist strap. Furthermore, the material repels sweat, which offers a smoothness feeling to skin contact and is not sticky as it happens in thermoplastic straps. Limitations of polyurethane casting -High temperature service -Hot environments with humidity -Presence of certain...

Titanium Juntor Old concept. Discontinued.

                                                          This watch was design and made by EXTático in 2009. It is the first concept of Juntor watches. It is just made from titanium watch case. Crown, buckle and atachement for straps is made from 316L. Sapphire crystal with red coating in both side was used for twice. It is done because to improve the light transparency looking at the dial. ETA 6498-1 put the watch case in, but whitout holder. The movement is clasped to the middle case. We have put new dial and hands in for this picture. Size is height 19,5 and widht 46mm but is very confortable for low...

Regulador (concept). Technical specifications

                                          TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 316L SS watch case. Made in Spain. 44mm width, 15, 5mm height. 157 gr weight. 316L SS case back eight screws. Special system link for strap Unidirectional bezel with 120 clicks. PUR Colour indicators. 30 ATM. Screwed crown twin locks 40 atm. Made in Spain. Black rubber strap. 316 L SS buckle with EXTático logo. Colour dials with Luminova Sapphire crystal with red anti reflective for both sides. Luminova handles Made in Spain. 2 years warranty On...

Interview with Gilberto Salas, CEO of EXTático watches

                    How did you come to a world dominated by Swiss Made? It was a joint idea of my brother and me. We believe that one of the things Spaniards enjoy the most is the idea of time-out or leisure time. In current crisis, that kind of approach makes our existence even more bearable. How can a watch differentiate from competitors? Especially, innovation in design. Watch manufacturers believe that everything has been done. I disagree. The problem is that watches are designed taking in account a lot of global parameters, even normalized ones. Designers rely on perceptual forms, but not in topological and contextual structures. This means ideas come from overused and frivolous shapes. On the contrary, we must look for ideas in a deeply and intense way. How would you describe your watches? Conceptual watches. Our watches are born from a concept, which is usually defined in terms of its meaning, not its shape. And the shape arises from the relationship between the meaning of the concept and its expression as a topological space. Where do your watches come from? And how do you make them? I design and develop them here, in Alcoy. Once sketches are ready, I make the watch cases and each metalic components like crown and handles in our workshop in Alcoy. As well rubber strap with polyurethane cast. Other parts, as crystal or dial, are manufactured in other countries of Europe. Anyway, I hope we achieve making all watch parts in Alcoy soon, even the movement. Tell us about the design: where do you get...

Luminova EXT diver

                        “Luminous pigments are classified by daylight or body colour and an emission-colour which do not have to be identical”, explains in TRITEC site. It means the luminous pigments can be designed for a same colour for day time and different emission colour for night time. Day time the colour can be C1 or C3 but night time can glow with different colour and intensity. This classification is normalised with ISO 3157 and ISO/DIS 17514 the body-colours are standardised for timepieces: Anyway tritec site states that any coloration of the basic natural colour reduces the afterglow intensity, like we can view in the picture The classification ISO 3157 for body when is not glowing is, C1 Colour “C1” for white C3 Colour “C3” for yellow C5 Colour “C5” for greenish-yellow C7 Colour “C9” for blue-green                               If we compare the body colours with the brightness, 30’ after, we look that C1 white colour with an emission white is lower that the most of colours. The body colour as BWG-9 is second in brightness; the emission is not white but blue or green, generally.                     When we started this project, we wanted to put white luminova on dial, handles and bezel, as in body as emission night time colour. We know that the white emission is lower than other body. The idea was to put this pigment white colour as on dial as handles and bezel,...

Turning watch concept

                                                  We performed a study of a concept watch, from concept turning by Calatrava tower in Malmoe. The idea is to design a new watch form to be sintered with laser fusion metal. The tools used are the grassopper, a pluging Rhino and Rhino 4. There was also the possibility of using the Genoform, but these effects were used for screenshots. The first screenshot is an approximate scale in millimeters of the turning torso. We used a hexagonal floor plan rotating at a certain distance. This distance, the turns, the number of polygons, the bezel width, height and size watch can be modified by incorporating grassopper sliders. Study by José Ramón Tramoyeres and Gilberto...